Very often we tend to take everything for granted without pausing to think about how fabrics are made, and above all what characteristics distinguish them. These aspects are important for making the best use of garments, preserving them, and washing them properly.
Today we are going to look at jersey, a fabric that is not actually a woven fabric, as it is not made with warp and weft on a loom. The term refers instead to fabric produced in plain knit, which is how most industrial knitwear is made. The surface of jersey is therefore smooth, honeycomb-like, and elastic both in length and in width. In addition, jersey works well with all spinnable fibres, especially cotton, wool and viscose, which are the three main fibres with which it is usually produced.
More specifically, the main types of jersey fabric can be broken down as follows:
Cotton jersey, made from 100% cotton, looks matte, feels light, soft and stretchy to the touch; it is the ideal fabric for T‑shirts and summer blouses.
Lycra jersey: made from 80% polyester and 20% lycra, it is highly elastic and is usually used for long dresses.
Viscose jersey: made from 100% viscose, this version is characterised by an elegant drape; it is very silky and is chosen for dresses, tops and skirts.
Double jersey: this last type is produced on machines with two sets of needles and does not have a fixed fibre composition, but rather a mix of spandex, polyester or viscose; it is heavier and more compact than the fabrics mentioned so far, which is why it is used to make cardigans or winter dresses.
Jersey is a very soft fabric that does not crease and is able to mould perfectly to the various body shapes. Absorbent and easy to wash and stain‑remove, this fabric is the most widely used for unisex sportswear, underwear, leggings and even certain types of footwear that feature jersey combined with materials such as rubber or leather. In particular, to ensure great elasticity, jersey is worked together with elastane yarns for leggings, swimsuits and other types of sportswear where maximum comfort is needed for exercise and physical activity in general.
Have you ever wondered why it is called jersey? The name is not made up; it actually pays homage to the place where the fabric originated, namely the island of Jersey, which lies in the English Channel and is the largest island in the Channel. At the end of the 19th century this fabric was used there for clothing for seafaring men, the fishermen. It was therefore considered a low‑value material, not suitable for the world of high fashion.
The revolution began in 1916, when the designer Coco Chanel bought a large batch of machine‑knitted jersey from the textile industrialist Jean Rodier. Coco, of course, used it for her own creations, hats and dresses, and introduced an innovation that people liked and that quickly turned into fashion. It was not just a trend, which as we know is changeable and temporary, but an evergreen. That is why we still hear about it today—or rather, we continue to wear jersey and cotton jersey garments.
