It often happens that the traditional meaning of a word comes to embrace a larger number of elements, which is what has happened with the term “tartan”. In fact, while this word originally referred to the specific pattern of the Scottish kilt, made from wool fabric, today it covers different fabrics and various interpretations of the original design. Thus, the characteristic pattern of broken squares formed by stripes of different colors, typical of the men’s kilt in Scotland, has spread both to international menswear and womenswear. And, as we know, there is no shortage of home furnishing fabrics, such as upholstery and curtains, featuring tartan patterns.
To be precise, the tartan pattern is called a “sett” and is repeated across the entire fabric at a frequency that we might say is predetermined. Today there are almost 50 variants, each with specific characteristics, different colours and an identifying name. We speak of identification because the first 33 setts present in the 16th century had a very specific purpose: to distinguish the 33 “clans” of the Scottish Highlands, that is, the Scottish regions. Every inhabitant of each region could therefore be recognised by the tartan fabric they wore.
The history of this fabric therefore begins with a matter of national identity, but it does not begin with the little kilt we know today. It seems that originally Scottish men simply wore a large tartan wool shawl and held it tight at the waist with a belt, an accessory that gave the lower part of the fabric the appearance of a skirt.
Another curious fact about the history of this fabric can be found in its prohibition. Long a great source of national pride, in 1745, after the defeat of Prince Charles Edward Stuart, a revolt broke out and many laws were passed, including the “Act of Proscription”, which banned traditional dress. Twenty years later, in 1765 to be precise, tartan was officially reinstated, becoming the uniform of the Highland Regiments.
It was actually Queen Victoria who turned tartan into a status symbol, wearing it from the 1800s onwards during her stays at Balmoral with her husband Albert. Thus associated with high society, over the last century tartan has been linked to different fashions and trends. For example, after the Second World War, tartan—and the kilt itself—became a popular garment, worn both by ordinary people and by Hollywood stars. In the 1970s tartan was reinterpreted in a punk key and its essence, previously seen as a bon‑ton element, came to symbolise rebellion. In the following decade, tartan trousers made their debut on the catwalk; it was therefore from the 1980s onwards that tartan clothing broke free from the confines of the kilt and translated into many different garments. Finally, in the 1990s, when bands such as Nirvana and Pearl Jam were at the height of their success, tartan became grunge and was often used in layered looks, something that has largely continued to this day. Indeed, the various trends described so far have inevitably influenced tartan, which is now considered a fabric with a retro feel. Fashion designers appreciate it and use it to create unconventional, original looks that often play on contrasts, as it is a mix of styles rather than a single, clearly defined style.
